Open, Closed, Butterfly or Kaftan: A Guide to Abaya Styles

Abaya styles get named loosely online, and the same photo will be listed as a kaftan on one site and a butterfly on another. If you're shopping by name and getting something different each time, that's why.

Here's what each cut actually is, and who it works for.

Open front

Worn open over what you already have on. It's a layer, not an outfit — over jeans and a top on a Saturday, or belted over a dress for an occasion.

Who it suits: anyone who wants versatility from one purchase. An open abaya changes character entirely depending on what's underneath and whether you belt it.

What to check: whether a belt is included. Many aren't, and an open abaya without one only wears one way.

Closed

Pulls over the head, no front opening. One garment, one decision, full coverage without depending on layers.

Who it suits: anyone who wants to get dressed in one move. Closed abayas are the fastest thing in a modest wardrobe.

What to check: the neckline and how it goes on. A closed abaya with a tight neckline is awkward over a hijab you've already set.

Butterfly

Named for the sleeve — wide and dramatic, falling in a curve from shoulder to hem so the whole garment reads as one line when you raise your arms.

Who it suits: occasions. A butterfly abaya is a statement even in plain black.

What to check: sleeve width against your daily life. Beautiful across a room, and they will drag through your plate at dinner if the cut is too wide.

Batwing

Similar to butterfly but with the sleeve cut into the body rather than set in, so there's no shoulder seam. Softer drape, less dramatic.

Who it suits: anyone who wants the butterfly look but wears it more often than once a season.

Kaftan

Loose through the body, usually with wide sleeves, and traditionally more decorative — beading, embroidery, embellishment. Closer to a dress than a layer.

Who it suits: weddings, nikkah, Eid dinners, anything where you'd otherwise wear a gown.

What to check: how the embellishment is attached. Beading and rhinestones that are set into the fabric survive wearing, sitting and washing. Glued embellishment sheds after one wear.

Bisht

A structured open layer, traditionally worn over other clothing. Presence without weight.

Choosing on fabric, not just cut

The cut decides the shape. The fabric decides whether you actually wear it.

• Nida — the weight that holds a clean line rather than clinging. The standard for Khaleeji-style abayas.
• Crepe — matte, textured, forgiving. Doesn't show every crease.
• Satin — falls in liquid folds if it's good quality, clings if it isn't. Real satin falls, cheap satin clings.
• Chiffon and organza — light and layered, best for occasions rather than everyday.
• Linen — breathes in a way polyester doesn't. Worth it in summer.

Three questions worth asking before you buy

Is it opaque? A lightweight abaya over a dark outfit is fine. Over a light one it isn't. Good sellers say so.

Do the sleeves push up? For wudu, sleeves need to move cleanly and stay where you put them. Elastic cuffs do this; wide bell sleeves often don't.

Does it come with a belt? Changes what one garment can do.

If you're between sizes or unsure how something falls, call us on (718) 208-7937, 11am to 8pm EST. We'll take it off the rack and measure it, or FaceTime so you can see the drape yourself.

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